Remember to pull it off evenly, and use a knife to cut around the outside should you need to, which may help with the initial prying near the top. The location just above the bolt hole nearest the camera in the photo is a slot that is exposed even when the cases are stuck together, and should help get them pried apart. I found a third location to pry at, which seems to work well, and is far enough back from the mating surfaces that it shouldn’t cause marring if you use a screwdriver: These work well for the top, but getting down to the side, it’s more difficult. There are two slots at the top of the case, denoted in the FSM as spots to pry at. Once all the bolts have been removed, it’s time to pull the case. This may or may not matter, but I followed the guide. The FSM shows you the proper order in which to remove the bolts so the cover is de-torqued correctly. Now that the covers have been removed, the large sprockets are exposed. At the same time I was cutting around the outside of the cover to help remove RTV, since you’re mainly wanting to be working against the o-rings, not the RTV. The IVT covers need to be pried off as they’re RTV’d on as well as held in place with o-rings, so I used a large prybar to gently pull one side away enough to slip a large screwdriver in, then wiggled the cover back and forth while gently pushing the screwdriver in further to help pull the cover off straight. However, you can leave the black water pump and main tensioner covers attached, no reason to remove them since you are removing the entire timing cover. The manual has you remove the IVT covers, which you have to do because they have o-rings and seals inside them. It took a friend and I to hold the flex plate and run a large breaker bar on it in order to get it loose. You’ll need to remove the crankshaft bolt if you haven’t already, it’s a bear to pull off since it’s torqued to 36ft-lbs, then rotated another 90°. Just need to get more gaskets and o-rings. I didn’t remove them to do mine, but you can if you’d like. The problem with the service manual is that it specifies removing everything, including the rear timing cover, so it has you remove a lot of things that are unnecessary, like the valve covers and variable valve timing solenoids. You’ll also need to have the engine mount bracket removed, in the above picture it’s already taken off. They are the two shown on the right of the image above, the very long one, and the short one. This means you must remove the lower oil pan to get to those two bolts. If you don’t, you’ll split your cover when trying to pry it free. You don’t have to remove the upper oil pan to pull the timing cover, but you DO have to unfasten the two bolts that attach it to the cover. I’m doing this while I’ve got it out of the car so I don’t have to do it again for a long while. Quick overview of where we’re at here: Front of a 2005 Maxima VQ with 55k miles, this was an AT but that doesn’t matter since the oil pan is already removed. I’m not sure why they don’t replace the IVT rings, maybe I can purchase those as well, I’ll add them to the list! 15066-ZL80A – SEAL O RING – Small o-rings in studs near top left and right of timing cover – Qty 2.13510-7Y000 – SEAL-OIL,CRANKSHAFT FRONT – Front seal installed in front timing cover – Qty 1.13097-ZK01C – TENSIONER FACE – Small tensioner shoe – Qty 2.13091-ZK00A – CHAIN GUIDE – Slack guide (left) – Qty 1.13085-7Y010 – GUIDE-CHAIN,TENSION SIDE – Right(fixed) chain guide – Qty 1.13085-7Y000 – GUIDE-CHAIN,TENSION SIDE – Top Chain Guide – Qty 1.13070-7Y000 – TENSIONER ASSY-CHAIN – Main tensioner – Qty 1.13028-ZS70A – CHAIN-CAMSHAFT – Large Crankshaft Chain – Qty 1.13028-ZK01C – CHAIN-CAMSHAFT – Small camshaft chain – Qty 2.They assured me that this is what their technicians replace when they do a 6th gen timing chain job: ![]() I went to my local Nissan dealer and asked them for the parts needed to do this job, and this is what they sold me. Might as well replace the water pump while you’re in here, too! Most stuff I’ve seen in my travels says to replace all three chains, the main tensioner, the top guide, the slack guide, and the two small guides in the camshaft chains. I’m doing it with the engine out of the engine as I’m swapping it into a 5.5 Gen, so the upper oil pan is already removed and I’ll be going from there. Overall, this isn’t a hard job, just tedious. Feel free to ignore this thread if it’s useless, but I’m hoping it will help someone! If I’m giving bad info here, someone let me know! I’m sure there’s a ton of threads here on this, and I’ve seen YouTube videos, pictures here and there, and lots of other tidbits of info scattered about, but I just wanted to add one more to the list.
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